If you have any requests of what I should post a section of, leave a comment here and I'll do one (Unless it's far too complicated without making a massive post, or requires some pre explaining)
Keep on fishin'.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon innesi)
Neon Tetras, the most popular fish to keep in todays tropical fish tank! With their peaceful nature, vibrant coloured bodies and inexpensive cost, why wouldn't you want them?
Size:
1.5", 4cm
1.5", 4cm
(10g)40L or more, depends how many you want.
Compatability:
As Neons are very peacful, anything else with a similar nature.
Nothing larger, as they are very commonly eaten by larger fish (Synodontus, larger cichlids ect)
Nothing larger, as they are very commonly eaten by larger fish (Synodontus, larger cichlids ect)
Sexing:
Difficult, you must look at the belly of the Neon. Females will have a larger belly (holding eggs), which would also mean their blue line would be distorted, not lookign straight. As a male wouldn't be holding eggs, the blue line will be straight.
Feeding:
General flake food will be fine, they're small fish so they don't eat much. Be careful about overfeeding!!
Water quality:
PH: 5.5-7.5
DH: 1.0-25
The above stats depend entirely on where they're bred, as these fish are bred heavily for public demand, they may be able to go into higher PH water easily. If you want to play it safe I wouldn't go higher than a PH of 7 (DH of 10).
DH: 1.0-25
The above stats depend entirely on where they're bred, as these fish are bred heavily for public demand, they may be able to go into higher PH water easily. If you want to play it safe I wouldn't go higher than a PH of 7 (DH of 10).
Freshwater Tropical.
Breeding:
PH 6-6.5
DH 1-2
Temp 22-24C
Breeding these fish can be difficult due to not being hardy fish currently.
They require a low light aquraium (Preferably dark / semi dark) as the eggs are light sensitive. . Feed the females on high quality foods such as live worms / blood worms ect, which would hopefully get them to start producing eggs as they have a increase of available energy. Have a group of 2-1 male ratio (refer to sexing as above). Leave them in there for around 24 hours, you should see eggs being scattered, and remove. Reccomended to use plants, such as Java Moss or any other finer leafed plant to hold the eggs.
One laid, the eggs will take 1 day to hatch, and a further 3-4 days to be free swiming, which you can start feeding them infusoria/rotifiers, then in 4 weeks max, you can start them on Brineshrimp. This does depend on how fast they grow, so you may want to use a combination of both after two weeks.
PH 6-6.5
DH 1-2
Temp 22-24C
Breeding these fish can be difficult due to not being hardy fish currently.
They require a low light aquraium (Preferably dark / semi dark) as the eggs are light sensitive. . Feed the females on high quality foods such as live worms / blood worms ect, which would hopefully get them to start producing eggs as they have a increase of available energy. Have a group of 2-1 male ratio (refer to sexing as above). Leave them in there for around 24 hours, you should see eggs being scattered, and remove. Reccomended to use plants, such as Java Moss or any other finer leafed plant to hold the eggs.
One laid, the eggs will take 1 day to hatch, and a further 3-4 days to be free swiming, which you can start feeding them infusoria/rotifiers, then in 4 weeks max, you can start them on Brineshrimp. This does depend on how fast they grow, so you may want to use a combination of both after two weeks.
Special requirements:
The Neon Tetra we know today definitely isnt the same neon tetra we would of seen in the wild 100 years ago. There's been a very high demand on the numbers of these fish as they are brightly coloured, small and peaceful. Due to this high demand, these fish have been bred to a point where genetically they're weaker than almost every other fish in the aquarium. Due to this, you have to take caution when purchasing them. When picking, follow these steps:
-Brightly coloured in LFS; I wouldn't purchase them if they just arrived, as they're very stressed and prone to death / sickness if moved to another aquarium.
-Buy groups, these are schooling fish, 6 is a minimum. More is definitely better.
-Keep a eye on your levels, a small ammonia spike may knock a couple of these guys out. Be careful, especially if they're your first fish (Such as feeding every two days instead of everyday. Only if you haven't pre cycled your tank).
-Clean waters makes them happy!!:)
That's pretty much Neon Tetras in a nutshell, feel free to leave a comment and I'll answer it when I can!
-Brightly coloured in LFS; I wouldn't purchase them if they just arrived, as they're very stressed and prone to death / sickness if moved to another aquarium.
-Buy groups, these are schooling fish, 6 is a minimum. More is definitely better.
-Keep a eye on your levels, a small ammonia spike may knock a couple of these guys out. Be careful, especially if they're your first fish (Such as feeding every two days instead of everyday. Only if you haven't pre cycled your tank).
-Clean waters makes them happy!!:)
That's pretty much Neon Tetras in a nutshell, feel free to leave a comment and I'll answer it when I can!
Friday, April 1, 2011
Back to basics : Filtration
Filtration is a mandatory feature in todays Aquria, ranging from Sponge filters to Sump units. Whether you're a expert or a beginner, your filtration can always be improved, with noticable effects.
There's a little thing called the Nitrogen Cycle. Fundamentally Fish food/waste -> Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate (->Nitrogen). This cycle will keep your fish tank healthy, and your fish unharmed. If you're missing a link, you will have a high value of said amount. Usually with new Aquariums you will start your cycle. You will have high ammonia, bacteria will populate and convert that to Nitrite. Once again, a different type of bacteria will populate and convert nitrite to nitrate. Ammonia and Nitrite will harm your fish when it gets high. In a perfect aquarium you will be aiming for 0 of each. Nitrate on the other hand, has a lesser effect on fish.
How does this relate to filtration? Well, filters help keeping your tank healthy by 'filtering' the water through different Media. The main three are Biological, Chemical and Mechanical.
Biological filtration is the most important area, and most crucial. You will generally have some sort of Bio Noodle, which is very porous. The more porous, the larger the surface area and the more Bacteria you may have. From reading the synopsis on the Nitrogen cycle, bacteria is good. We want lots. The more bactera we have, the more fish waste our aquarium can handle, which means more fish. We all like to have more fish.
There are several different types of Biological media, Bioballs, Noodles and 'mech'. Certain brands have a larger surface area, for example. Cheapo noodles will be $10 for 150g. Good ones will be upwards to $30. Sounds like a major difference, yes, but one thing you have to think about is changing it...It's very hard to change biological media. Removing it will remove your bacteria colonies, which will in turn harm your fish. So in terms of purchasing, go for the best one. It will do far better and keep your tank far healthier.
Chemical isn't exactly what it sounds like. Chemical filters will absorb organics and liquids in your water. Ranging from fish urine to medication. Pretty much anything that you might not want in there. There are a couple of different varieties, Carbon, Purigen and others. Carbon inexpensive, should be replaced every 6-8 weeks. Purigen is pricier, but if looked after well can last virutally forever if you recharge it. It lasts alot longer and will make water clear as clear can be. Other checmical ones may have the ability to absorb Ammonia, Nitrite or nitrate. Good!
Mechanical filtration traps particles. Small or large. These are your filter wools, flosses and spongers. Assuming you have biological filtration, you want to wash these monthly (or replace eg filter wool), just to prevent them from blocking up, because they will. If you don't have biological media, wash them in Aquraium water that you would of taken out via water change.
That's the basics, the most important thing to keep in mind is your filter is infintely customizable. Later on I will be covering more indepth versions of each of these, naming a few more brands and perhaps getting into comparrisons. This enlighten you on the wonderful world of Filtration.
There's a little thing called the Nitrogen Cycle. Fundamentally Fish food/waste -> Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate (->Nitrogen). This cycle will keep your fish tank healthy, and your fish unharmed. If you're missing a link, you will have a high value of said amount. Usually with new Aquariums you will start your cycle. You will have high ammonia, bacteria will populate and convert that to Nitrite. Once again, a different type of bacteria will populate and convert nitrite to nitrate. Ammonia and Nitrite will harm your fish when it gets high. In a perfect aquarium you will be aiming for 0 of each. Nitrate on the other hand, has a lesser effect on fish.
How does this relate to filtration? Well, filters help keeping your tank healthy by 'filtering' the water through different Media. The main three are Biological, Chemical and Mechanical.
Biological filtration is the most important area, and most crucial. You will generally have some sort of Bio Noodle, which is very porous. The more porous, the larger the surface area and the more Bacteria you may have. From reading the synopsis on the Nitrogen cycle, bacteria is good. We want lots. The more bactera we have, the more fish waste our aquarium can handle, which means more fish. We all like to have more fish.
There are several different types of Biological media, Bioballs, Noodles and 'mech'. Certain brands have a larger surface area, for example. Cheapo noodles will be $10 for 150g. Good ones will be upwards to $30. Sounds like a major difference, yes, but one thing you have to think about is changing it...It's very hard to change biological media. Removing it will remove your bacteria colonies, which will in turn harm your fish. So in terms of purchasing, go for the best one. It will do far better and keep your tank far healthier.
Chemical isn't exactly what it sounds like. Chemical filters will absorb organics and liquids in your water. Ranging from fish urine to medication. Pretty much anything that you might not want in there. There are a couple of different varieties, Carbon, Purigen and others. Carbon inexpensive, should be replaced every 6-8 weeks. Purigen is pricier, but if looked after well can last virutally forever if you recharge it. It lasts alot longer and will make water clear as clear can be. Other checmical ones may have the ability to absorb Ammonia, Nitrite or nitrate. Good!
Mechanical filtration traps particles. Small or large. These are your filter wools, flosses and spongers. Assuming you have biological filtration, you want to wash these monthly (or replace eg filter wool), just to prevent them from blocking up, because they will. If you don't have biological media, wash them in Aquraium water that you would of taken out via water change.
That's the basics, the most important thing to keep in mind is your filter is infintely customizable. Later on I will be covering more indepth versions of each of these, naming a few more brands and perhaps getting into comparrisons. This enlighten you on the wonderful world of Filtration.
Friday, November 26, 2010
Epiplatys Dageti
A Degati pair, male (Larger, more colour and larger fins. Behind) and female (Smaller, less colour. Front) Picture from http://killis4ever.blogspot.com/ A very informative and enthusiastic Killi blog.
Picture
Size:
~7cm (2.8")
A standard 60L tank will be fine, 60x30x30 (2"x1"x1")
Smaller tanks should be fine, just restrict the number of Killies allowed, or fish in general. Needs a close lid as they may jump out.
Compatability:
Dageti are predatory fish, so anything that's slow moving or with long flowing fins may suffer with them. Stick to similar sized fast moving fish such as Danios and Tetras. Gouramis(Anabantoids) will be fine, as well as most bottom dwelling fish. Dwarf Cichlids too.
Sexing:
Males are larger with more colouration on finnage. Females may lose their barring as get older.
Feeding:
Dagetis aren't fussy, most foods will go down fine.
Water quality:
PH of 6-7, 6.5 is recommended.
Tropical, 21-25°C, so they can handle cooler temperature for those in more temperate areas, but preferably at 23-24.
Breeding:
Breeding in somewhat pairs, several males can be with each female.
It's reccomended to have rocks and floating plants as they will establish a territory, and the male will defend it. Killie fish are quite prolific due to their short-ish life span, so they should lay egg (Egg scatterers) every 12 hours or so for the next few weeks. Once eggs are visable remove them as the parents/tankmates may eat them.
Special requirements:
Tight closed lid as they may jump.
Plants for them to hide in when stressed (Surface floating, such as Ludwigia, Java Moss, Water Wysteria or any other surface reaching / bushy plants).
Monday, September 6, 2010
Template
Introduction / description
Picture
Size:
Size of fish
Good size tank
Compatability:
Fish they can go with
Sexing:
Differences between males/females.
Feeding:
Special food?
Water quality:
PH/KH.
Salt/Fresh/tropical/Cold
Breeding:
Requirements? (Rocks ect)
pairs, hareems.
Special requirements:
Anything unusual
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